If someone were to ask me, what city I thought is the most hip of them all in Southeast Asia, I’d easily say the dusty city of Siem Reap, Cambodia. While it does have a pub street, you will not find much of a party scene in Siem Reap like you would in Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City which is rather refreshing.
This small city is really known for the temples of Angkor Wat which are absolutely magnificent and would be a shame to miss if ever in Cambodia. With so many people coming through as tourists to see the temples, there are also many expats, NGO worker and volunteers from around the world who stick around and call Siem Reap their home and with that it also makes sense that in Siem Reap there would be a growing café and art scene. This has given local Cambodian entrepreneurs and international ones as well to see this as an opportunity to promote Khmer culture and local talent by starting business ventures that involves the community.
If it is your first time in SE Asia (like it is mine), you probably are trying to take it easy with the street food to avoid any stomach bugs (like I did), but I think a better idea is just to eat whatever you thinks looks good and not be so paranoid (like I was) because truth of the matter is, it doesn’t matter where you eat, you’re probably going to get sick even if it looks like the cleanest establishment and serves up burgers and fries. Take a Peptobismol (like I did) and all will be dandy! I found it to be hilarious when I went to a popular coffee shop/ice cream shop in Siem Reap called Blue Pumpkin, which also has food that is not necessarily cheap, where a large group of tourists with a few moms and their daughters included, were eating full on meals there probably to avoid any type of discomfort.
With that all said, some of the best dishes I had in Siem Reap, were cooked up in these establishments using old family recipes so you are truly getting exceptional and traditional Khmer food. Here are the top three cafes I highly recommend you try when you find yourself in Siem Reap especially after a day of exploring the temples in Angkor Wat.
New Leaf Book Cafe
I considered New Leaf my definite go-to spot for a hearty Khmer meal that’s a bit spicy and just so good. New Leaf also serves as a community center in the way through art shows, live musical performances, a book store and a space for morning yoga classes. The cafe is not very large, but the quaint and feel good atmosphere offered by the employees and customers who come here make it feel welcoming.
If you do find yourself there, I recommend the pumpkin-coconut soup, it’s unlike any other pumpkin soups I had in Cambodia. The pumpkin soup is creamy and the coconut milk base is what gave it a real Southeast Asian flair. I give it a five-yums up. I literally ordered the soup 3 different times and each time was savory perfection. If you’re looking for something more filling, I also recommend the steamed fish amok and the hot sweet and sour noodles. Both were delicious entrees and neither of the dishes are over $5.
New Leaf Cafe is near the Night Market and right off of the area of pubs and hostels. Very conveniently located if you’re hungry or want a stretch.
Address: Group 10, Phum Mondul 1, Svay Dungkum, 306 Street 9, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia
Upstairs Cafe
We found Upstairs Cafe while exploring the neighborhood we were staying and it is the most adorable coffee shop I have ever been to. It’s tucked away on the second floor of Madame Beergarden Underconstruction. When you walk in, it’s as if you just stepped into a picturesque mix between Parisian influence and a farmhouse in the mid-west. The baristas at Upstairs Cafe serve different types of coffee, fresh local fruit smoothies, teas and pastries. The coffee is solid with Illy coffee which is my favorite and TWG teas. If you need a morning pick-me-up, you can get it here.
They also have women’s clothing and accessories for sale as well as bags, wallets and other handmade items made by local Cambodian artists that you can buy.
Upstairs Cafe is located on Wat Bo Road above Underconstruction Madame Beergarden.
Sister Srey
Sister Srey is extremely popular among the expats and backpackers coming through Siem Reap. It’s always busy with people either eating, socializing or typing away on their laptops so when we saw a couple of empty seats, we walked on in and ordered lunch (we missed their Sunday brunch) after looking through the menu inside a vintage “Little Golden Books” (adorable).
The café is decorated in a boho-hippie-chic decor (think Free People) and serves up traditional Cambodian food as well as burgers and sandwiches likely because Sister Srey is run by two Australian sisters. I noticed that all the employees were Cambodian which is great because they’re bringing job opportunities to the city. I found this article from the Siem Reap Post blog that gives a bit of a background of the story behind the restaurant and how it changes the lives of those who work there and I recommend reading it. It’s a short article, but worth the read if you’re looking for a some inspiration on how realistic it is to make a positive contribution as a result of your travels.
Sister Srey does have a welcoming and social feel and the coffee is good. If you do want to have an early dinner here, you should get there early because they close at 6 p.m.
Address: 200 Pokambor St Siem Reap, it faces the river and is walking distance from the Old Market
Getting to the Cafes
Sister Srey, New Leaf and Upstairs Cafe are all easy to find in Siem Reap. The Google Map shows that Sister Srey Cafe and New Leaf Book Cafe are a bit of a walk between each other, but they’re literally 2 minutes apart so if Sister Srey is packed and if you don’t have a reservation, you can easily make your way to New Leaf Book Cafe, or vise versa. Upstairs café is a bit of a walk from that general area, but it’s not too far. Cross over the first bridge after Wat Preah Prom Rath (which I recommend you exploring) and turn left when you get to the Horizons boutique hotel on the corner and just keep walking for about 5 minutes until you arrive at Wat Bo Road. Make a left and the café will be on the right side of the street on the second level above Underconstruction.
Final Thoughts
These three spots were great locations for us to visit and spend time to keep out of the heat in Siem Reap and they are cafes that I absolutely recommend. They’re not really off-the-beaten path considering they are always packed with customers and a majority of the customers are not from Cambodia, but the cafes are unique, delicious, welcoming and benefit the local community. However, one thing you will notice immediately, is that you almost never see any Cambodian locals eating or drinking at any of the cafes that travelers, tourists, or expats go to and it’s not necessarily because they’re westernized locations, but more so to do with the cost. Spending $5 for a local dish is probably out of the question for most of the people living in Siem Reap, but because Siem Reap does have a lot of tourists, the prices do go up at most restaurants and cafes or a latte costs as much as a meal even. I wish there was not so much of a disconnect between where we eat and where the locals eat. Even when you ask hotel or hostel staff, they will recommend restaurants or cafes that are more westernized rather than local, down to earth eateries that they grew up eating in.
In any case, Siem Reap does have a lot of great places to eat, 50 cent drafts and places to drink coffee while being able to give to various causes and I’ll be looking forward to the next foodie article to share some of the best places to grub and they’re not all on the “western trail.”
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